miércoles, 13 de noviembre de 2013

System #2/ El Manifiesto de Diseño de Rei Kawakubo


System #2 Otoño/Invierno 2013: Lily McMenamy by Juergen Teller.

La imperdible revista System lanzó su segundo ejemplar con una hermosa fotografía de tapa con la inscripción de una frase de Rei Kawakubo, directora creativa de Comme des Garçons: "The rules are in my head" ("Las reglas están en mi cabeza"). De espaldas la modelo Lily McMenamy luce uno de los intrincados vestidos negros de la última colección de Kawakubo presentada en París.

La revista ha logrado además que Kawakubo -muy reticente a hablar y dar entrevistas-, redactara una especie de manifiesto creativo que nos permite penetrar un poco en la mente de esta artista del diseño.
“La voz de un diseñador nunca ha sido tan importante para diseminar los valores de una marca. Hablando cínicamente, él (o ella) que hable más fuerte, es el que se siente más. Aún así mientras el rechazo de Kawakubo a explicar(se) a menudo ha frustrado al público, su silencio le ha dado a su voz más poder y resonancia que a ningún otro diseñador de moda en la industria hoy en día", dice Hans Ulrich Obrist, curador de arte y crítico, encargado de entrevistar a Rei Kawakubo.
"Going around museums and galleries, seeing films, talking to people, seeing new shops, looking at silly magazines, taking an interest in the activities of people in the street, looking at art, travelling: all these things are not useful, all these things do not help me, do not give me any direct stimulation to help my search for something new. And neither does fashion history. The reason for that is that all these things above already exist.
I only can wait for the chance for something completely new to be born within myself.

The way I go about looking for this from within is to start with a provisional ‘theme.’ I make an abstract image in my head. I think paradoxically (oppositely) about patterns I have used before. I put parts of patterns where they don’t usually go. I break the idea of ‘clothes.’ I think about using for everything what one would normally use for one thing. Give myself limitations. I pursue a situation where I am not free. I think about a world of only the tiniest narrowest possibilities. I close myself. I think that everything about the way of making clothes hitherto is no good. This is the rule I always give myself: that nothing new can come from a situation that involves being free or that doesn’t involve suffering.

In order to make this SS14 collection, I wanted to change the usual route within my head. I tried to look at everything I look at in a different way. I thought a way to do this was to start out with the intention of not even trying to make clothes. I tried to think and feel and see as if I wasn’t making clothes."

Rei Kawakubo, Octubre 2013.

Algunas piezas de la colección Comme des Garçons Primavera/Verano 2014.

-Mirá la colección completa y colecciones anteriores de Comme des Garçons: Acá


Fuente: TheFashionSpot; BOF.
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